15 Creative Uses Of Overexposure

Posted in Digital Photography Techniques on February 23rd, 2009 by Peter Carey

The nice thing about all the rules of photography is they can often be broken with great results.  Some would even claim there are no actual rules of photography, just results.  Whether the whole image or just part of it, I’ve complied 15 great examples of how overexposure can be used to enhance the end result.

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Photo by LeRe Pics - 1/80 f/8 ISO 3200

Copyright brianschulman

Photo by brianschulman - 1/60 f/3.5 ISO 1600

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Photo by Yandle - 1/5 f/8 ISO 50



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Photo by .Pete. - 1/40 f/18 ISO 200

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Photo by TheAlieness GiselaGiardino²³ - Exposure Not Published

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Photo by skycaptaintwo - 1.3 seconds f5.6 ISO 100

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Photo by katmere - 1/125 f/2.8 ISO 200

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Photo by ljmacphee - 1/8 f/8 ISO 50

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Photo by melody.gates - 1/10 f/16 ISO 100

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Photo by cstrom - 1/1000 f/2.8 ISO 100

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Photo by reborg - Exposure Not Published

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Photo by ooOJasonOoo - 1.6 seconds f/3.5 ISO 800

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Photo by mangpages - 1/15 f/2.8 ISO 200

Photo by Lachlan Hardy - 1/640 f/8 ISO 200

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Photo by John Worthington - 1/800 f/7.1 ISO 100

How to Photograph Coastlines

Posted in Digital Photography Techniques on February 6th, 2009 by Darren Rowse
How to Photograph Coastlines

Image by ^riza^

I love heading for the coast and every year I attempt to head there at least once for a little rest and relaxation (which generally involves at least a few hours of photography each day).

Coastlines present the photographer with a wonderful array of photographic possibilities ranging from people shots on a crowded summer beach to more landscape oriented shots with waves crashing, ragged cliff faces and moody skies.

Image by -RobW-

Image by -RobW-

Here are a few random tips for coastline landscape shots as well as a few images to hopefully inspire you:

Find a Point of Interest

If there’s a tip I write on virtually every type of photography it is to find an interesting focal point for your shot. This is particularly important for coast line shots which can (if you’re not careful) be made up largely of sky and water. Of course there’s nothing wrong with sky or water - but unless you’ve got something in your frame to draw the eye of the person viewing your shots you’re unlikely to create something that holds their interest for long at all. Your focal point might be a physical aspect of the landscape (like a rock in the sea), it could be movement (like waves) or it could be some sort of texture or pattern (ripples in the water). Train your eye to see this way and you’ll create some great shots.

Photographing Coastlines - Point of Interest

Photo by Garry

Look for Reflections

Whenever you’re around large bodies of water you introduce the element of reflections into your shots. These can make or break your shot, depending how you treat them so be very aware of their impact. If you want to eliminate reflections consider moving the position that you’re shooting from or using a polarising filter - however be aware that the reflections of a colorful sky or interesting rock formation can add depth and interest to your shots.

Image by Orvaratli

Image by Orvaratli

Foregrounds

Coastline shots quite often have empty backgrounds (horizons with the sea meeting the sky) so it can become even more important than normal to find shots with interesting foregrounds. Use a small aperture to help keep both your foreground and background as in focus as possible.

Photograph Coastlines - Foregrounds

Image by BUR?BLUE

Mix up the Format of your Shots

Some coastline shots are very well suited to a horizontal (landscape format) - however rotating your camera 90 degrees to a vertical position can produce powerful results - particularly when you have an interesting foreground, an interesting cloud formation or when you’re shooting with a high cliff along one edge of your shot.

Photographing Coastlines - Format

Image by Jeff McCrory

Movement

Photographic location that has an element of movement presents itself with both opportunity and challenge for a photographer. While the coast can be a very still and serene place it’s also one of constant movement, particularly with wind and waves. Try shooting with longer shutter speeds (with a tripod of course) and capturing this movement - the results can be breath taking.

Coastlines - Movement

Image by orvaratli

Color

Be very aware of the colors in your shots. I find that coastlines can be incredibly moody places and can present you with anything from vibrant colors (blue skies, translucent emerald waters and bright yellow sand) through to the cool and more subtle colors of a stormy day. Both of these options (and everything in between) can work well if you think about how you might work with them (consider using filters, shutter speeds, the time of the day that you shoot etc).

Image by MorBNC

Image by MorBNC

Look for the Detail

I love the size and grandeur of coastlines and particularly enjoy shooting with a nice wide angle lens to get as much of it in as possible - however the coast is also full of a wonderful array of smaller details that are worth zooming in on. Shells, sea animals, seaweed, patterns on the sand - all of these things can make for a wonderful image.

Image by Storm Crypt

Image by Storm Crypt

Introduce a Human Element

Coastlines on their own can be wonderful and on many occasions you’ll be willing to wait for the scene to clear of any trace of people to capture a ‘pristine’ shot - but sometimes it is the people IN the shot that give it the point of interest that we talked about above. Whether it be a person, a number of people or some other element that shows that people use this part of the coast (a building for example) - sometimes while you’re waiting for people to get out of the way you should probably be looking for ways to include them in your shots.

Image by camil tulcan

Image by camil tulcan

Seasons and Tides

Coastal locations are constantly changing - both on a daily and seasonal basis. Keep an eye on the times of the tide as they can completely change the mood and composition of the shots you take. Similarly the time of day you’re shooting at (and the direction and color of the light) will change a coastal landscape. Revisit locations at different times of the day and you might find a spot that doesn’t ‘work’ is one that presents you with the money shot later in the day - particularly be aware of the opportunities just before and after dawn and dusk. Also coastlines change a lot from season to season - revisit the same scene over a year and you’ll quite often end up with an interesting and diverse set of shots.

coastline photography tips

image by (nz)dave

Turn Around

When photographing coastlines many photographers make the mistake of becoming obsessed with the ocean and always incorporating it into their shots - sometimes ignoring the richness in subject matter just a few meters away. Venture into the vegetation behind you and you’ll find all manner of interesting shots (sea grass blowing in the wind, animals, flowers, wonderful windswept patterns in the sand etc). Don’t forget coastal buildings (lighthouses can be great) and other features - you never know what you might find (planes landing anyone?!?).

Photo by matt.hintsa

Photo by matt.hintsa

PS: for more related tips you might also like to read my previous post on Beach Photography (some similarities to above).

How To Use Sports Mode

Posted in Digital Photography Techniques, Sports, Sports Mode on February 2nd, 2009 by Peter Carey

Copyright Salim Fadhley Most DSLRs and even half of the point and shoot crowd come with a variety of prefabricated scene modes to help novice and intermediate (and sometimes pro) photographers.   The modes are created to instantly calibrate a number of camera settings to a specific situation.  Today I’ll be explaining what Sports Mode is on your camera dial and how best to use it.

What Is Sports Mode?

sports-icon-1First off, Sports Mode is the little running figure that looks like this. While exact settings vary from camera manufacturer to camera manufacturer, most of this description holds true no matter which camera you use.  Sports Mode is a quick setting to adapt the camera with these typical settings:

  • Increase ISO variably to higher setting
  • Reduce f/stop for a shallower depth of field
  • Increase shutter speed to help stop fast action
  • Increase frame advance to highest setting (measured in frames per second or fps)
  • Adjust auto focus mode to adaptive or artificial servo


Copyright genewolf

Copyright genewolf

Typically the ISO is set at 400 or above, but depending on lighting conditions and lens selection this can be slower.  Most cameras will set this number in a variable fashion so the user does not have to continue changing it.  Reducing the f/stop will help isolate the action in the scene.  Most of the time the action is a single person, a car, a horse against a backdrop and it’s best if that background has a blur to it to isolate the action.

Increasing the shutter speed will increase the chances of stopping the main action.  The setting, as with all settings, depends on the amount of available light and lens in use.  Most of the time the shutter is set to 1/200 or greater.  The frame advance is also increased to its highest setting, typically 3-6fps or more.  Continued activation of the shutter release will result in a series of shots to help capture just the right moment of action.

Copyright Keven Law

Copyright Keven Law

Lastly, the auto focus mode is changed to a predictive setting (named differently on different cameras).  This setting will often use a complex system to anticipate direction, speed and closeness of the main subject in order to calculate the precise focus at the time of shutter activation.  While not normally used in average shooting, this type of focus system can be very useful in high speed action.

All of these variables combine to take the guess work out of shooting sporting events.

How To Use Sports Mode

Now that you know how the settings function, let’s take a look at some examples of how to use Sports Mode.

Copyright Daita Saru

Copyright Daita Saru

First, Sports Mode works best with a long lens.  This is because the decreased depth of field will rendered a sharper contrast between your main subject and background as noted above.  The faster the lens (lower the f/stop number) the better separation you will gain from the background and the less light required for a sharp picture.  Sports Mode typically forces the camera to use the lowest f/stop possible.

Also you can drop the tripod.  While a monopod will help with a very large professional (read; heavy) lens, the increased shutter speed and ISO of Sports Mode will make hand holding the camera much easier.

Copyright Jim Sher

Copyright Jim Sher

Next, keep the action near the middle of the frame, this will help with focusing as most cameras have the majority of their sensors in a pattern around the middle.  While you will sometimes want the action outside of the center, it’s best if it is first brought into focus (assuming you’re using autofocus, throw this out if you’re going manual) in the center of the sensor.

Lastly, take that previous rule and throw it out the window.  Well, not completely.  While it’s easier to focus on the action in the middle of sensor, it’s even better to give the action some place to go.  Take a look at the plane picture at right.  Leaving extra space in front of the action will give a greater sense of movement and presence.  The extra space in front of the plane will draw eyes with the action.  While this particular image was not shot with Sports Mode (the photographer picked a specific shutter speed) it is used to demonstrate the concept of providing a direction to the action.

Sports Mode is an easy way to instantly change your camera into an action capturing machine.  It helps take the guess work out of high speed activities while increasing your odds of bringing home what that one brief moment felt like.

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Playing With Fire - How to Photograph Fire

Posted in Digital Photography Techniques on January 7th, 2009 by Peter Carey

Photographing Fire can be a tricky thing - in this post Peter Carey shares some tips on how to do it.

Copyright Space RitualAll photography needs light. It’s at the heart of the word photography. For the most part that light comes from the sun or from an artificial flash. But today I’d like to talk about the use of fire as the primary source of light. Fire, from a single candle to a raging inferno, presents some great opportunities to stretch your creative side. There are many different forms fire takes and a few different ways to attempt to capture those special images that convey the power, heat, subtlety or warmth that comes from the flame. Let’s take a look at some of the more common practices. Feel free to experiment and post links to your own findings in the comments section below.

3Copyright Velo Steve

Single Flame

Shooting a single flame is one of those tasks that seems simple at first, until it’s attempted. For this experiment you’ll need a candle of just about any type, a dark area to help highlight the flame, a tripod or some sturdy surface to hold your camera and patience. It’s best to use manual focus and focus on the end of the wick. The flame itself will not be in super clear focus as it is producing the light while being a three dimensional object, meaning the intensity and points to focus on it will be varied. If your camera has spot metering, use it and take a reading off the flame itself. This may produce a fairly dark image, so experiment with overexposing a little by slowing down the shutter speed. Make sure there are no drafts around to move the flame if what you’re looking for is the photo at left. Conversely, once you have the basic technique and shutter speed figured out, play around a little by lightly blowing on the flame and attempting to capture its dance. This candle photo was shot at 1/6th of a second at f/8 to help increase depth of field in the candle itself.

Stop or Go

The two photos below are examples of the same basic activity but with drastic differences in presentation. The top photo was taken with a fast shutter speed (1/60th at f/3.5) to stop the action of the fire spinning while the image on the bottom has a much slower shutter speed (3.2 seconds at f/3.4). Both images are dramatic in their own way; the top image highlights the spinner and gives structure to the fire, while the bottom one shows what the action really looks like and trades off clarity in the spinner. DPS has an excellent video tutorial by Forum Member Sodaman420 on Light Painting if you’re looking to shoot more shots like the photo on the right.

Copyright jswieringa Copyright Gaetan Lee

Copyright isubiker

Campfires

Campfires are one of the easiest fire images to take. But the key is in getting the shutter speed dialed in. It’s best to use a slightly longer shutter time to help blur the fire as well as give any sparks a chance to leave a light trail. The image at left was exposed for one second at f/3.5 so the participants had to remain fairly still and the camera had to be tripod mounted or on a suitable surface (rock, backpack, cooler, etc…). Campfire shots are great at conveying warmth and calm or a wild party attitude, depending on what the subjects in the picture are doing. If the shutter is left open too long here, the fire will be too bright and the mood lost.

Big Fire

Attempting to capture images of large scale fire while not losing the feel of the heat can be tough. Most images are understandably taken at a distance far from the flames, which causes the fire to lose impact and scale. Here, safety is a number one concern as wildfires are very unpredictable. The shot below, taken of the Santa Barbara Fire in California, does an excellent job of capturing the ferocity of the fire by waiting until night to add a dramatic effect to the smoke. Being able to highlight the smoke gives a sense of volume and space to the fire beyond its attachment to the ground. Also, shooting at night with a slower shutter speed allows for more intensity in the flames varying color and brightness.

Copyright Jason Fox

Fire carries with it a lot of impact and variety. Show us how you have captured images of flames, big and small, in the comment section below.

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